Montana Journal: Trip of a Lifetime
By Ted Koller
Pittsburgh Chapter Family Tyes
DAY 1- July 27, 2007
Today we woke up around 2:30 A.M. to get to the Pittsburgh International Airport. As I took the ten day trip, I met up with Mr. Jones and Mr. Allison, both whom would help me a lot in the coming days in Montana. I don’t think that I can thank them enough.
We took three flights today. The first was from Pittsburgh to Detroit; then to Minneapolis; then finally to Bozeman. Our flights all took off and landed late, so we had to run to catch them. Fortunately Northwest Airlines was flexible and we ran just fast enough to make it to Bozeman with all of our gear.
After arriving in Bozeman, we picked up our rental mini-van, and drove to the Gallatin River. This was a difficult stream to fish, because days of rain had washed soot from a forest fire into the river making it a milky white color. After only about a half hour on the Gallatin, we moved on to a small stream called Grayling Creek; where I missed two fish. After our efforts proved to be fruitless, we drove to the Madison River outside of West Yellowstone. Today we would be fishing the section at Three Dollar Bridge.
Mr. Jones told us (Mr. Allison and me) that the Madison is some of the best fishing in all of Montana. The river definitely holds large trout, however catching them proved to be difficult because too much water was being released from the Quake Lake, making the stream very powerful. We left in some amount of frustration for the Silver Gate Lodge outside of Yellowstone.
One of our group at Three Dollar Bridge on the Madison.
DAY 2- July 28, 2007
Today would prove to be much better than yesterday. I left the Silver Gate Lodge with Paulie, Mr. Z, Mr. Jones, Mr. Allison and Ian and Mr. Goldthorpe from Central PA. We decided to fish a small stream in Yellowstone called Hellroaring Creek. I caught 15-20 fish all on Parachute Hoppers. Most fish were between 8-11 inches, with two over 13 inches. Most fish were cutthroats and cutbows. They were small fish for Montana, but it was still about the best day of fishing I have ever had! I definitely learned the value of a wading staff on this stream, as it was a fast pocket-water stream, with many rocks similar to greased bowling balls. We saw two bears today, one grizzly and one black bear. We also saw several pronghorn on our way back to Silver Gate. The opportunity to fish streams such as this one is the reason why I came to Montana.
A nice Hellroaring Cutthroat
Paulie on Hellroaring Creek
DAY 3- July 29, 2007
Today was a tough day overall. After waking up and eating breakfast we decided to try Soda Butte Creek. The stream was perfectly fishable through Silver Spring and Cook City, MT. However we were in search of bigger fish below Amphitheater Creek. We found this lower section to be the color of chocolate milk. I missed on fish using a Soft-Hackle Hare’s Ear with a swinging technique that Mr. Jones showed me.
In the wake of our frustration we went back to Cook City for lunch, where we ate at a barbeque restaurant, which was the best I have ever had. After lunch, we bought 1-day Wyoming licenses and went to the Clark’s Fork River. This stream was a nice freestone with some great pools and riffles; which provided seams that were very productive, It required some persistence to catch fish, however. The fish were rather selective, as this particular river had seen a good bit of pressure the few days before we were there. The fishing really began to heat up at around sundown. I probably hooked 30 fish through the entire day, mostly on Caddis Emergers. Of the fish I hooked, I probably landed about 20 of them.
All in all today was a tough day that ended very well. Once the sun went down and the caddis hatch started, the fish became a lot more active. Towards the end of the day I was probably getting a strike every five drifts or so!
Me on Clark’s Fork
Soda Butte was a bit off color today
DAY 4- July 30, 2007
Today was another very good day. I fished Soda Butte Creek with Mr. Jones, Mr. Allison, and Mr. Zahurak. Today would prove interesting, especially considering that I almost had an encounter with a bull buffalo! We all did fairly well. I probably caught between five and ten fish overall. They were mostly in the eight to ten inch range, with one about fifteen inches. I caught all of my fish in seams and undercut banks. I came closer to perfecting the swing technique that Mr. Jones showed me. Today it proved to be very successful. The one and only downside to today is that I dropped my camera in the stream, although once it dried it did work pretty well. When we got back to Cook City we had a steak dinner at small restaurant, then I fished section of the stream close to were we were staying that night in Silver Gate. The Upper Butte fished well too, but I had more success below Amphitheater Creek. The fish were also smaller than they were below Amphitheater. It was a nice piece of the stream just the same.
DAY 5-July 31, 2007
Today was mostly a travel day. That was ok because I got to see a bit more of Yellowstone. We drove through the park to the town of West Yellowstone. To get to the town, we had to drive up the caldera of Yellowstone, which was breathtaking! Yellowstone is basically a giant sunken volcano, and the caldera is the outside rim of the volcano. On our way to West Yellowstone, we stopped to see several hot springs, including the Artist’s Paint Pots. The Paint Pots are basically holes in the ground with a hot spring that begins to boil every so often. Because of the chemical vapors rising from the springs, the earth around them is a reddish color, hence the name Paint Pots.
Despite being a travel day we did fish two streams today. In the morning I fished the Lamar River. The Soda Butte fished better yesterday when it was muddy than the Lamar did while it was clear. I did however miss one very sizeable cutthroat on a caddis emerger. Other than that I got skunked. After leaving the Lamar, we left for West Yellowstone. There, we stopped in pizza restaurant called Wild West Pizza-awesome.
After lunch we stopped in a few fly shops in town, and then drove to the Madison River. We fished the section of the Madison near Raynold’s Pass. The conditions there were not much different than they were at Three Dollar Bridge. Mr. Jones and Mr. Allison helped me a lot here. My biggest lesson was I entomology, learning that aquatic insects will migrate to shallower water to hatch. Therefore we should try to fish the shallow riffles and gravel bars. With their help I caught an eighteen inch rainbow. All in all today was a tough day. Today I realized in full how much the Mentors with Family Tyes want kids on any trip to have success. I think that they were as happy as I was!
Mr. Allison (left) and Mr. Jones (not pictured) thank you for all your help!!
DAY 6- August 1, 2007
Last night after leaving the Madison, we drove to Upper Canyon Outfitters along the Ruby River. We got here around midnight last night, so this morning I woke earlier than normal to check the water conditions. The stream actually looked low, which was a nice change of pace. It looked like a nice stream with lots of seams and riffles. On this trip I have definitely learned that fishing seams and undercut banks are often the most productive parts of a stream, because the give fish the most protection and food supply.
I fished the Upper Ruby Today. I caught three trout and a whitefish. One trout was easily sixteen inches. Catching fish proved to be difficult though, as the water was so low and clear. Hopefully it will come up within a day or two.
Ruby River Rainbow
For dinner tonight we went to the Liebman family’s ranch in Alder. After a huge Mexican dinner, Paulie and I left for Mill Creek just before dusk with Mr. Goldthorpe and another man, who is a minister in Missoula. Mill Creek is small spring creek with HUGE trout. The fish were really spooky, so the right approach and presentation were essential; Mr. Z and Jarrett helped me out there. The one fish I did manage to catch was about a ten inch brown. However one 20+ inch fish snapped my leader the second he took my fly! This was just one example of how much different Montana trout are from their PA cousins.
DAY 7- August 2, 2007
Today was the day I had been waiting for the most on this trip. Of all of the stories Mr. Z told the advanced fly tying class about Montana, this was the one I remembered most. He took Paulie, Tyler and me to Ledford Creek, about fifteen minutes from Upper Canyon. Although Ledford is only about two feet wide in some places, some of the biggest fish I caught on this trip were from here. The creek is surrounded by high grasses, so the best fly to use proved to be a HUGE grasshopper, fished in the under cut banks. The fish were extremely spooky, so only one person could fish at a time. Whenever somebody, missed a fish, caught one or snagged and snapped their line, the next person was able to fish. Often times on this stream you didn’t even need to cast. I think that this was my favorite stream of the trip. It was definitely worth the sixty four mosquito bites I counted on my legs when we got back!
Tyler’s nice brown from Ledford Creek
You would never think this stream holds trout so big!
DAY 8- August 2, 2007
A decent rain storm moved through last night, bringing the water level in the Ruby up a few inches, and giving it a slightly darker color. Today I fished the Middle Ruby with Mr. Thatcher. I did REALLY well!!! The fishing was easier today because the river was a bit higher, so I could get a little closer to the fish. I caught most of my fish on a Soft Hackle Hare’s Ear. Unfortunately I left the camera back at Upper Canyon, so I couldn’t get any pictures. The river was a bit narrower here than it is elsewhere. There also seemed to be a bit more structure, which gave me more options as to where to fish. This section of the river had some deeper pockets, which proved to hold nice fish.
A nice view of the Ruby River.
After dinner I fished the section of river by the outfitters. I landed one and missed two more. It was getting dark, so my fly/strike indicator was more difficult to see. Eventually the dark sky and coming rain forced Paulie, Mr. Allison and me off the stream. Today was definitely a good day. I think that my skills have definitely improved a lot since day one. I am much better at detecting strikes without a strike indicator
DAY 9- August 3, 2007
Today I stayed at the ranch. I mostly fished the stretch of the Ruby near the outfitter. I fished within walking distance of the cabins today. Fortunately, the water stayed at a good flow for fishing. I caught most of my fish on Stimulators in the riffles and Hoppers along the bank. One thing I have definitely enjoyed about this trip is the chance for a lot of dry fly fishing. I think. I have always thought that fishing dries is the most fun way to fish, especially in Montana. There are very few things more exhilarating than watching large trout slowly envelop a fly sitting on top of the water. However, I also believe that protecting the ability to enjoy these pleasures is among a fly-fisherman’s greatest responsibilities.
In Pennsylvania, and most of the East Coast for that matter, the dry fly fishing is about over by mid-June. This is due in part to the fact that our rivers become warmer more quickly, but also due to the overall water quality of Eastern streams. The streams that I have been able to fish in Montana have the give of very clean water. Therefore there are more fish and more insects, thus better fishing. I truly believe that it is our responsibility as fly-fishermen, and contributing members of the world society to protect places such as the Ruby and Madison Rivers, and especially Yellowstone National Park. The places I have had the privilege to visit on this trip are some of the only ones left. I personally would like my great-grandchildren to be able to enjoy these magnificent places as much if not more than I have. The only way for that to happen is if the world as a whole takes action to save them.
Downstream photo of the Ruby River at Upper Canyon Outfitters
DAY 10- August 4, 2007
Today is the last day of the trip of a lifetime. Again, today I decided to stay at the ranch, as we would be leaving at noon and I needed to get packed for the trip home. Once I was packed, I still had a few hours to fish, so I decided I would try the pond at the ranch. I didn’t really have much success there. Fishing ponds with a fly rod has never really been my cup of tea, but it was still worth a shot. I eventually gave up on the pond and headed over to the river. I caught three before it was time to pack up my fishing gear. We then left for Jack Kambich’s ranch in Divide, MT for a barbeque and fishing in the pond on his property.
I, again did not have much success in the pond, but the barbeque was awesome! It was by far and away some of the best food I have ever had. Mrs. Kambich’s baked beans were the best I have ever had. It was a great way to end an awesome trip!
Big Sky Country at its best!!
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